SAFARI at MADIKWE HILLS LODGE
Madikwe Game Reserve, South
Africa
By Mary Ellen
I
have waited to write this report until I could find the right
words to describe this experience, but I do not have the ability
within me. All I can say is I understand now why people fall in
love with Africa.
The animals showed us a
gentler side of living life, unfettered by the trappings of
being civilized. Of course I did not see a kill. They were so
free, so graceful in their play, as we sat in our cages and
watched, but we really were the entertainment for them.
Our journey from Cape Town was mostly uneventful and smooth
thanks to our Escort Andrew. The only confusion was the
weighing of carry-ons. Most of us
decided to just check our bags. What freedom the rest of the
way while only carrying the camera and small hand bag. We even
got to keep our shoes on, and we were served a meal on the
flight. The lounge in the General Aviation Building for
Frontier Air was wonderful, supplying us with snacks and drinks
(the alcoholic kind also) with their compliments.
I
knew we were on Safari when we landed in our small twin-engine
plane on a dirt strip in the middle of nowhere at about 12:30PM.
We alighted to well over 100 degrees of ground temperatures.
Safari jeeps greeted us, luggage loaded we were off. Our first
sighting, giraffes, came shortly after we left the airstrip. It
perked our hot, dusty, sweaty spirits up. After a fifteen
minute ride we arrived at our lodge and were greeted with cold
hand towels and a refreshing ‘Sparkling Strawberry’ drink. Both
much welcomed.
For those of you who have been in my old home in San Jose please
note that this private accommodation we were shown to is larger
than it. It was long and narrow hugging a huge rock on the back
side and glass walls ceiling to floor on the rest. It had an
outdoor shower, plunge pool (a necessity), huge wrap around deck
and a narrow but sufficient view of the veldt (pronounced like
our felt). The only downside of this luxurious lodge is the
distances one had to travel from one end to the other if you
forgot something needed elsewhere.
The pathways of the Lodge were in stone of the most amazing
range of colors. The designer of this facility must have worked
months making sure each unit was private as the sounds of
laughter might be the only indication anyone else was around.
The spa was so hidden I almost missed it for my session.
Nowhere are there any signs except your room number in shells
glued to a rock beside the path leading to your room. I asked
for a map when we arrived and was told gently there was none.
After a day I really appreciated the lack of signage, arrows,
and map. You felt like you were a guest in someone’s home.
When not eating, sleeping, or on Safari I spent most of my time
naked outside at the plunge pool. Bruce spent his sleeping and
a little time at the plunge pool also sans clothes. I promised
him to hide the gifts when I edited the pictures so he allowed
me to take some when he indulged in the outside shower. I
seemed to have picked up the animals sense of freedom and it was
glorious. For decency sake I wore a top and bottom in public
but nothing else. Makeup and jewelry were left in the case
(except for earrings of course).
The chef’s name is Kevin. The meals he served where a wonder
to the eyes as well as the taste buds. This definitely was an
extension of our ship’s kitchen but where they got all the
marvelous ingredients is beyond me. Remember we are near the
Botswana border in the middle of nowhere. That being said on
our second and last night we attended a ‘Boma’.
I must note here that our foreign hosts must think Americans
can’t go one meal without a typical salad. There must be
lettuce farms every few miles within range of tourist stops to
take care of us. Once, the ship was out of iceberg and romaine
for three days and people squawked. A special shipment was
flown in to Walvis Bay from Cape Town. Yikes.
I
skipped the lettuce and headed for the local stuff. I know this
is a trite expression but the Summer Vegetable Soup was to die
for. I tried Ostrich, a local stew, a fish, a fried pumpkin,
and others I can’t name. All were different but tasty. I took
a picture. Chetaun, another adventurer, was the only sensible
person; she had pad and paper and wrote the names of everything
down. On second thought she is not, she moved from San Diego to
Cincinnati two months ago, in winter mind you. I digress. The
‘Boma’ is held in what we might call
a stockade. All is cooked on a central fire. Modern amenities
added to this ancient area which served to protect domesticated
animals at night were a super supplied bar and cloth covered
tables. Oil lamps provided light, along with the bonfire. A
full moon and stars provided a sensual and romantic touch to the
evening.
For those in the know I had a manicure, pedicure, Foot
Reflexology, and a 30 minute neck and back massage for just over
$100. The pampering was relaxing, and the pocketbook adored
it.
Meal service was a bit puzzling in one respect. Getting
liquids, especially water. This is a place that in the middle
of the day you could die of thirst and they only served water if
you waved hardily for attention or got up to get it. Once you
had a server’s attention though all was well. Michele, my spa
Pamperer, explained that they were
going through a period of no guests, two guests, full house,
four guests, etc. Job duties change depending on the number of
guests (11 rooms) and sometimes there is confusion.
All in all, this entire place is a destination in itself without
the safari. Relaxing, soothing, luxurious, quiet, this is a
sane place to refresh the spirit in a crazy world. If I am ever
lucky enough to be back in South Africa this will be one of my
stops. Ngaire, our Travel Agent, arranged this wonderful stop
for us. Thirteen of us were at Madikwe,
ten others stayed at a neighboring Lodge, Mataya, and they were as happy as we were in the choices
Ngaire made for us.
Safaris are
in the early morning and late afternoon, the animals being
sensible sleep or nap in shade from the burning sun in
between times. Our first safari began later the afternoon
of arrival at 4:45PM after 4:30PM Tea. These people run a
tight ship. Morning safaris begin at 5:45AM after a wakeup
call at 5:00AM and coffee and muffins at 5:30AM. The
morning ones have a coffee or tea break after the sun rises
and in the evening we have a Sundowner break near sundown
(or whenever it is deemed safe).
The first
night we were enchanted with a variety of animals, Giraffes,
Zebras, Wildebeests, Kudos, Birds, Antelopes, Springboks and
two sleeping ‘King of the Jungle’s’. I was very tired
after the sun set and our Sundowner as it was pitch black
(no stars yet) so I nodded off a little. The tracker (Johannus)
lit the way with a searchlight. Since nothing of interest
was forthcoming I leaned over and took a nap on Bruce’s
lap. I awoke to cries of ‘Leopard’. There he/she was, just
a few feet from the jeep. Flashes flared, cameras clicked
away. My camera caught the lights of everyone else’s. It
has yet to be determined if anyone got a clear picture.
What a beauty.
Back
to my nap.
“Elephants” woke me up this time. Now these were a
different story. They are big. The guide/driver (Frans)
stopped the engine and we watched. They were crossing the
road and disappeared into the brush but you could hear
rustling on the other side. We waited until a bunch of
elephants came back out of the bush and stared at us. The
driver said something like ‘this is not good’. He fired up
our jeep, backed up quickly, did a 180 and we quickly moved
away from the herd. Two other groups met up with some
elephants who threatened them. We were lucky, our pulse
rates never got very high.
Excitement
over we returned to the Lodge for
supper about 9:00PM. I had a cup of soup and two sips of
wine, I was done. It was time for a much earned sleep.
Bruce stayed for the whole meal. Next morning we started
anew.
Morning
safaris are the best for me. I can stay awake the whole
time and enjoy every single minute. It addition to the
aforementioned in greater numbers we saw a Hyena. It was
the cutest little creature, however deadly to other
animals. Lions that were awake were on the menu too. We
stopped for coffee on top of a hill and had breathtaking
views of the area. Not far away one could just see some
building which was the border town in Botswana. We returned
early (8:00AM) for breakfast and the beginning of a decadent
day.
I passed on
the evening safari. My plan was to get into a bathing suit,
sit in the plunge pool at the Dining Deck, enjoy a
Sundowner, and watch the animals come for their daily drink
at the watering hole in front of the lodge with camera at
the ready. As I was gathering my gear I get a phone call,
Cape Buffalo are here. Off I
ran. They kept coming and coming. When you think there are
no more, slowly and calmly one by one more appear from the
trees, long lines of them. The staff was all agog. Most
came out on the deck with their cameras clicking away. The
two jeeps were called back and everyone got to see the
treat. Richard, another adventurer with us decided to stay
behind this time. We enjoyed our Sundowner’s together.
Bruce went
off again and got pictures of a herd of white Rhinos and
elephants at a safe distance. We missed the Big Five by not
seeing sed the Big Five by not
seeing a black Rhino. We consider 4 ½g a black Rhino. We consider 4 ½g a black Rhino. We consider 4 ½g a black Rhino. We consider 4 ½ to be excellent. The
leopard had not been seen in three months so we felt very
lucky even if we didn’t get a picture.
The next
morning was a treat. Chetaun
herself had taken a little nap (some of us are morning
people, some night). As she woke she saw a lion in amongst
the trees. She called out. Frans
reversed the jeep and sure enough a lioness was to be seen.
Johannus and
Frans decided to investigate
further and we went off road. It would appear that two
lionesses were teaching two teens and two cubs the art of
hunting. Rest assured it was not for us. It was
fascinating to watch, these animals are beautiful and
graceful as they moved in their hunt/stalk mode. We
continued to ‘stalk’ them until we reached the legal limit
of going off road. Disappointed but so pleased we returned
to the highway.
Morning
coffee was of course all abuzz about the pride. Again I
haven’t the words to bring the event alive for readers, and
the sad thing is I am of Irish descent. We are supposed to
be great story tellers. Perhaps the pictures can tell a
little bit more of the encounter. (It would appear I didn’t
get that gene either.)
All too
soon the adventure was nearing an end. At noon we began our
journey back to the ship via Joburg
to Richards Bay, still in South Africa. About five minutes
out of this tiny terminal it poured down rain. It was very
welcomed. Unfortunately the ‘check everything’ policy
didn’t work for three suitcases. I haven’t heard to the
contrary but I am assuming all of them made it to the ship
OK later that night.
